Circumnavigating Vancouver Island – Days 11–24
Gary & Dayna
La Soirée – 2018 Sun Odyssey 419
Waiting Out the Weather, Rounding Cape Scott & Brooks Peninsula
Waiting for a Weather Window on Malcolm Island
Day 11 of our six-week circumnavigation of Vancouver Island found us doing something every cruiser knows well—waiting for a weather break.
We decided to remain at the Malcolm Island Lions Harbour Authority Marina until space became available in Port McNeill. While we waited, we explored everywhere the marina’s loaner bicycles could take us. Given the wind, rain, questionable brakes, and wandering steering, that wasn’t especially far.
We managed to visit all of the local attractions: the museum, the co-op grocery store, the takeout restaurant, and the coffee shop.
One afternoon we noticed the town suddenly becoming much busier than usual. A long line had formed at the co-op, and we soon discovered why—the ferry had broken down, leaving no one able to leave the island. In true small-town fashion, local fishing boats and tour operators quickly stepped in, offering to shuttle stranded passengers across to Port McNeill until ferry service resumed a few days later.
A New Crew and a Fresh Start
At last, the weather improved. Several cruising boats departed, opening up space for us in Port McNeill.
While crossing Broughton Strait we spotted a group of sea otters making their way toward the south shore. Once in Port McNeill we restocked provisions, Dayna returned home to take care of our dogs, and our friend Mike joined me for the remainder of the adventure around Vancouver Island.
Northbound to Bull Harbour
Our first leg together took us to Bull Harbour on Hope Island, a common staging anchorage before rounding Cape Scott.
The 40-nautical-mile trip through Queen Charlotte Strait and Goletas Channel began under favorable conditions. The wind shifted enough for us to enjoy a few hours of sailing before wind and current teamed up to bring the fun to an end.
As we motored into Bull Harbour, a pod of Dall’s porpoises escorted us in while a committee of curious sea otters appeared to inspect our arrival.
Rounding Cape Scott
We departed Bull Harbour at 7:30 a.m., timing our crossing of Nahwitti Bar just before high-water slack. The timing worked perfectly, giving us a favorable push all the way to Cape Scott.
With light headwinds of 6–8 knots, the sea built into 6–8-foot northwesterly swells mixed with a foot or two of chop—enough to make for a lively ride.
Along the way we passed through a dispersed group of what we believe were minke whales—smaller than orcas, dark in color, with rounded dorsal fins. They paid little attention to us as we rolled by.
Once around Cape Scott, the sea became more confused as the swell shifted westward. A few miles beyond the cape the conditions settled into a more regular rhythm with 5–6-foot swells, light chop, and modest headwinds. We continued south despite the pounding, hoping the wind angle would eventually improve.
At one point our raw-water intake became partially clogged, producing white vapor from the exhaust. A brief stop to run the engine in reverse cleared the saildrive intake, and we were back underway—despite the rain, cold, and rolling seas.
Winter Harbour
We eventually reached Winter Harbour Marina & RV Park, squeezing into the last available space at the end of a dock packed with commercial fishing boats.
It was fascinating to watch the fleet return throughout the afternoon, unloading and cleaning their daily catches right on the docks. We explored the boardwalk, visited the grocery store, and soaked in the character of this unique working fishing community.
One interesting conversation with the fuel dock attendant revealed that local landowners have plans for a future housing development across the bay. If those plans move forward, this rustic little harbour may look very different in years to come.
The following morning we fueled up, disposed of our garbage, and relocated two miles south to North Harbour near Matthews Island to stage for our next major challenge—Brooks Peninsula.
That evening brought another round of rain before settling into an unusually calm overnight anchorage while sea otters quietly patrolled the nearby shoals.
Around Brooks Peninsula
We departed at 9:00 a.m. with a favorable forecast calling for light winds and one- to two-meter seas.
The forecast proved accurate—cold, calm, and a bit lumpy.
As we cleared Quatsino Sound, the swell gradually increased while the wind remained almost nonexistent. Staying roughly two nautical miles offshore helped us avoid the confused seas closer to land.
Near Solander Island off Cape Cook, the swell built to 6–8 feet and the breeze shifted onto our beam. We unfurled the jib, which steadied the boat considerably and allowed us to motor-sail at nearly eight knots. Unfortunately, the breeze faded almost as quickly as it arrived, leaving only leftover chop as we rounded Solander Island.
Continuing past Clerke Point, we carefully threaded our way through the reefs and rocky passages of Checleset Bay. As the water shoaled, the swell gradually diminished, and we entered Ououkinsh Inlet before dropping anchor in a quiet, protected cove at the southwest end of Gay Passage.
Although sheltered, we could still hear the distant surf breaking along the outer shores of the Bunsby Islands.
Sea Otters Everywhere
Sea otters have become our constant companions.
We’ve seen them in every harbour and anchorage since leaving Port McNeill—sometimes several miles offshore, occasionally alone, and often gathered in groups of a dozen or more.
According to the Waggoner Cruising Guide, Checleset Bay was the location where sea otters were successfully reintroduced in 1969. Today their range extends from Barkley Sound all the way north to Cape Caution.
They’re wonderful to watch, although they seem remarkably camera shy whenever we try to capture them with a phone.
Day 24
Today marks Day 24 of our six-week circumnavigation of Vancouver Island.
We’ve logged ten straight days of rain, countless wildlife encounters, unforgettable scenery, and another reminder that cruising is just as much about adapting to the unexpected as it is about reaching your destination.
TTFN,
Gary, Dayna & Mike
La Soirée
2018 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 419
