Circumnavigating Vancouver Island – Days 25–42

Hidden Anchorages, Wildlife Encounters & an Unforgettable Sail Home

Through Kyuquot Sound

Day 25 brought a welcome change—at least temporarily. After our stay in the Bunsby Islands, we departed for Fair Harbour to top off fuel and water before continuing to Dixy Cove in Kyuquot Sound for the night.

Dixy Cove is a beautiful, well-protected anchorage with a narrow entrance and spectacular scenery. While exploring the shoreline, we discovered evidence of sea otters feasting on oysters high in the tidal zone. That evening, bald eagles swooped across the glassy water selecting dinner while schools of fish fed on clouds of insects dancing across the surface.

Queens Cove & the Famous Three-Dollar Anchorage

The following day we cruised to Queens Cove in Esperanza Inlet. With warmer temperatures and only light mist, it made for easy travel through Clear Passage—a route we were once again thankful to navigate with GPS.

According to the Waggoner Cruising Guide, First Nations visitors collect a $3 anchoring fee in Queens Cove. We visited every dock looking for someone to pay, but the only person willing to accept our three dollars was another cruising Canadian aboard a 50-foot tug.

Friendly Cove & Nootka Island

Finally, a day without rain.

We stopped in Esperanza for fuel before rounding Nootka Island and continuing to historic Friendly Cove. As seems worth mentioning every day, the endless forests, rugged mountains, and dramatic coastline remain almost impossible to describe.

Esperanza itself proved memorable thanks to a volunteer church group from Enumclaw helping restore the facilities—and for its legendary canned cheesecake. Sadly, the gentleman who made it had passed away without sharing the recipe, leaving only stories behind.

Friendly Cove was bustling with activity as the Nuu-chah-nulth community held its annual gathering. We explored the historic church, lighthouse, beach, totem poles, and visited the master carver in his wonderfully aromatic woodshop before settling in for the evening.

Around Estevan Point into Clayoquot Sound

Departing Nootka Sound, we once again searched for enough wind to sail. Like many days on this trip, the breeze teased us before fading away.

Eventually, as we entered Russell Channel, the wind filled in just enough for a beautiful sail into West Whitepine Cove after a ten-hour passage around Estevan Point.

The following morning brought breakfast with two black bears and a cub foraging along the shoreline.

We later explored Shark Creek Falls by dinghy, carefully navigating the shallow tidal creek to discover a remarkable waterfall disappearing into a narrow rock chute unlike anything we’d seen before.

Ahousat & the Working Coast

Hoping for a restaurant meal, we continued to Ahousat only to discover the local restaurant had closed following the passing of its owner.

Instead, we stocked up at the well-supplied general store, watched fishing boats fueling at the dock, and spent a quiet evening preparing for another early departure.

Sea Otters in Barkley Sound

Our next destination was Ucluelet.

Although wind, rain, and visibility continued to challenge us, the wildlife once again stole the show. After seeing only occasional sea otters for several days, we suddenly encountered an entire raft—perhaps eight or more—floating together over deep water far offshore.

Now we understood why they’re called sea otters.

Ucluelet itself offered every cruising luxury we had been missing: hot meals, shore power, fresh water, dry towels, laundry, and electric heat. We even stayed an extra day to fully enjoy civilization before continuing south.

Waterfalls & Rainbows

Leaving Ucluelet, dense fog slowly lifted as we explored Lucky Creek Falls by dinghy before enjoying one of our first truly pleasant sailing days in weeks.

With the Code 0 flying, we enjoyed a beautiful reach beneath a rainbow that seemed to form directly overhead like a halo.

Moments like these remind you why we cruise.

An Unexpected Sailboat Race

While beating toward the Broken Group Islands, we noticed what appeared to be a fleet of racing sailboats approaching from leeward.

Without planning to, we suddenly found ourselves leading them.

We trimmed sails, searched for every favorable shift, and held the lead as long as we could. Eventually only one boat managed to pass us.

It turned out we had unknowingly joined a Seattle Yacht Club cruise and race in Barkley Sound—and unofficially finished second!

Turtle Cove & Bamfield

That evening we anchored in picturesque Turtle Cove among sandy beaches, rocky islets, and countless kayakers enjoying one of the first warm days we’d experienced in nearly a month.

The following morning brought low fog beneath blue skies before we continued to Bamfield.

Waiting on the ferry dock was an unexpected surprise—Robyn from Marine Servicenter happened to be visiting and greeted us from shore. A fun reminder that even hundreds of miles from home, the boating community is surprisingly small.

Whales Along the Coast

Our passage toward Port Renfrew settled into an easy rhythm as gentle swells carried us south.

Along the way, a humpback whale surfaced only about 100 yards off our port side before disappearing into the Pacific. Several more whales appeared farther offshore as we continued our journey.

The Race Rocks Challenge

The most demanding sailing of the trip came during our final offshore leg toward Victoria.

With winds building from 20 knots to over 30 knots—and eventually gusting above 40—we progressively tucked in reefs while surfing downwind at speeds approaching 10 knots.

Approaching Race Rocks, we chose the inside passage hoping to find calmer water.

Instead, as we entered the channel, a violent gust instantly broached the boat nearly 75 degrees toward the reef.

Fortunately, we had left ourselves room to recover.

By easing the mainsail, powering up the jib, and hand steering, we quickly regained control before continuing safely toward Victoria.

Looking back, it was one of the most exhilarating—and humbling—days of sailing any of us had experienced.

Victoria & the Journey Home

After two enjoyable days in Victoria making minor repairs, sightseeing, and enjoying a few professionally prepared meals, we pointed the bow toward Anacortes.

With favorable current and enough wind to keep the sails drawing for much of the trip, it was a fitting conclusion to an unforgettable adventure.

Completing the Circumnavigation

In Anacortes it was time for another crew change.

Mike departed after three outstanding weeks aboard, having become both an exceptional shipmate and a great friend. Dayna returned, joined by our son Cole and his wife Meredith, for the final leg back to Tacoma.

Forty-two days after departing, La Soirée, our 2018 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 419, successfully completed her circumnavigation of Vancouver Island.

The journey brought incredible wildlife encounters, unforgettable anchorages, challenging offshore passages, and friendships that will last long after the sails are furled.

Gary, Dayna & Mike
La Soirée
2018 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 419